Savoring the World’s Best Gelato in San Gimignano

Most travelers visit San Gimignano to see the stone skyscrapers of “Medieval Manhattan.”  But little did we know that some mouthwatering eats can be found in this infamous tourist trap.  And at budget prices, to boot!

Let’s mix things up and start with dessert first, shall we?  Forget the biscotti and tiramisu, delicious as they are, and head straight for the gelato.  Sampling the various flavors and comparing the different shops is something the whole family will want in on no matter where you go in Italy.  However, in San Gimignano, you only need to make one stop – Gelateria Dondoli.

The multitude of flavors in this ice cream parlor will boggle your mind (see them here, here, and here), and the line out the door will make you wonder if the whole shebang is even worth it.  Have some faith my friend, you’re about to taste the best gelato in Italy!

I must admit, our unadventurous souls shied away from the most creative flavor combinations like raspberry with rosemary or gorgonzola with walnut.  However, I couldn’t resist a spoonful of the champagne – unbelievable!  Other favorites: espresso, cinnamon, mango, and wild berry yoghurt.  But, who cares what we liked – keep sampling until you find the one, or twenty, that you dig.

And, to put the cherry on top, this incredible ice cream shop is one of the cheapest in all of Tuscany.  Apparently all the Gelato World Champion fame hasn’t gone to their heads.  The title has, however, made the neighboring gelateria green with envy.  Don’t be fooled by their sign touting “the world’s best gelato.”  In this case it’s best to argue semantics and to keep your eyes peeled for the crucial word champion.

Unfortunately, no “world minestrone championship” exists.  But if it did, it would be a bore since Trattoria Chiribiri is the clear winner.  Progresso ruined my opinion of minestrone for years; but one big bowl from Chiribiri has me stalking websites for a similar recipe.

Soup not your thing?  No worries.  Order the beef in Chianti or the gnocchi with cream sauce instead, and insist that the waiter bring you an extra loaf of bread.  You’ll be sending the plates back to the kitchen cleaner than a whistle, trust me.  Trattoria Chiribiri served us the BEST restaurant meal of our Tuscan vacation (second only by Trattoria da Leo in Lucca), and for under 35 euros no less.

For more on Trattoria Chiribiri, check out my review on TripAdvisor (look for the shoes!) or the recommendation in Frommer’s.  You can also browse their website, but I should warn you that the food photography is atrocious and does not reflect the quality and flavor of the dishes.

Since I have your attention, I may as well share a few notes on San Gimignano itself.

In this village, everyone’s a tourist.  You’d be hard-pressed to find a single soul without a backpack or camera.  While this is annoying in some respects (no “authentic” Italy here), in other ways it’s a relief.  For once, it’s easy to blend in.  Just strap on a DSLR, add a fanny pack for flair, socks with sandals if you can stomach the look, and you’ll fit right in.  Really.

Most sandal and shutter-stocked sightseers head straight for the towers.  We weren’t keen on sharing a small staircase with fragrant strangers, so we opted to view the village and countryside from the Rocca.  In addition to being extremely budget friendly (read: free), those with sturdy legs will get the best view of the stone high rises from here.  For east side scenery, follow the signs to Punto Panoramico.To ditch the crowds, follow the path outside the walls counterclockwise starting at the Porta delle Fonti.  You’ll be treated to Tuscan views peeking through the olive-laden trees.

Spend the afternoon checking out churches or gagging at the grotesque in the Museo della Tortura.  Whatever you do, you’re bound to have a pleasant stay in this famous city.  Despite its overpriced tourist heart, San Gimignano still offers budget gems to travelers who know where to look.

Practical tips for visiting San Gimignano:

• Toilets – All public potties are pay-to-pee, fifty cents a pop.  Drink responsibly, and use the bathrooms in restaurants you patronize.
• Prams – Many streets are incredibly steep (a central theme in Tuscany..).  You’ll see the Italians using strollers, but save yourself the struggle and stick with a backpack carrier.
• Prices – If it’s souvenirs you’re after, don’t buy them in San Gimignano.  Other Tuscan hill towns are cheaper.  For instance, a package of pici noodles costs 1,98 euro in the grocery store.  An identical bag in Pienza sells for 2,50… or 3,50 in San Gimignano.
• Timing – For day trippers, try to make the extra effort to arrive very early or stay late.  The empty streets and perfect lighting will make for beautiful photos.
• Playgrounds – We found two areas for the kiddos.  The first is near the Rocca.  Head to the south side, and you’ll see a set of steps leading to it further down the hill.  The other is on the east side of Via Folgore da San Gimignano.  It’s behind a gate, but visible from the street.
• Parking – You can save a bit by parking down the hill at lot P1 (1 euro/hr).  We left the car in P2 (2 euro/hr), but it was worth it not to have to hike up the hill in the hot sun or wait for the park-and-ride bus.

This post is part of Our Tuscan Family Adventure: Two Weeks of History, Culture, Food, and Fun in Italy series.  Click on the link to view our bucket list and recaps of each excursion!

Cycling the Walls of Lovely Lucca – with Kids

Lucca is, in a word, lovely.

Everything about the place took me by surprise.  Not only is  the architecture just downright pretty and slightly unique, but the town is so…. relaxed.  No one is in a hurry.  No crowds, no jostling, no chaotic queuing.

Not to dis Florence or anything, but Lucca is a breath of fresh air compared to its more famous neighbor.

When working on our itinerary, I squeezed Lucca in between two packed day trips (Florence and the Cinque Terre).  It was meant to be a sort of low-key, half-day filler, really.  But we were so charmed, we found it hard to leave.

Though graceful in the streets, Lucca is most known for its massive, ancient walls.  Four kilometers in circumference, the surface of the walls are wide enough to accommodate two lanes of vehicles.  In fact, auto races were held on the walls in previous years.

Today, residents and visitors alike walk, jog, run, and cycle the walls.  I didn’t want to buck the trend – so we rented bikes and joined in!

The walls of Lucca from outside the city.

The wide, wide walls.

Our bikes were from Cicli Bizzarri on the north side of town.  Rates were 3 euros per hour for adult and children’s bikes; tandems, trailers, and Surrey bikes cost more.  We opted for two bikes with children’s seats, and a kids mountain bike for T-Rex.  I wanted to rent a Surrey, but Doc Sci wasn’t keen.  Since it was expensive (I think 12 or 15 euros per hour), I acquiesced.

Though he cycles to school each day, T-Rex does not have gears on his bike.  The kid has not stopped talking about his “gear bike” since!  

I rented this bike with a baby seat on the front. Big Foot liked being where he could see the action, but it was difficult to get used to extra weight on the front. And the little stinker kept putting his hand over the bell whenever I rang it.

Once airborne, we couldn’t believe the extraordinary views from above of this darling city.  Boutiques, churches, backyards, fountains, flowers – everything exuded a quiet elegance.  The boys enjoyed counting the playgrounds (two down below and three on the walls themselves).

One complete circle on the path takes around 20-25 minutes if you don’t stop.  We started clockwise, and then had another go in the opposite direction.  Since the walls are so wide, I never worried about T-Rex taking a tumble.  Of course, he rode near the middle of the path… just in case.

Here we go!

One of the playgrounds we saw from above.

These houses backed right up to the walls.

Even the ice cream is on wheels in Lucca!

Before we returned our bikes, we decided to dip into the city below.  Unfortunately, we found ourselves befuddled by the ancient alleys and lack of street signs several times, but (truth be told) that happens even when we’re walking!  Even so, our legs were happy to be pedaling rather than pounding the pavement for hours as we had done in Florence the previous day.

If you happen to cycle in the city itself, be forewarned that pedestrians here don’t know the first thing about sharing paths with bikes.  I might’ve gone a little overboard ding-a-ling-ing the bell…

After taking a wrong turn, we found Spiderman!

For lunch, we chose the Trattoria da Leo as recommended by our trusty guide book.  Again, it didn’t disappoint.  With incredible food and reasonable prices, it’s no surprise that snagging an al fresco table at lunch time can be a real challenge.  Reserve in advance, if possible.

In a sheer stroke of luck, we ordered two knockout dishes – Minestra di Farro Lucchese and Rigatoni something-or-other with eggplant.  I don’t even like eggplant, and Doc Sci and I had a thumb war over the last noodle.  I’m still hunting for a recipe to replicate the harmonious flavor of that soup!  Even picky Big Foot scarfed down everything we put in front of him.  After mopping up every last dribble of sauce, we were out the door for less than 30 euros.  Yes!

Trattoria da Leo

To crown our culinary experience, we sought out some gelato.  The organic flavors at De’ Coltelli hit the spot.  A few euros later, we savored intense blueberry and lightly sweetened yogurt.  Should you be the adventurous type, De’ Coltelli also whips up fish gelato.  Say, what?!

Delicious organic gelato.

We passed a boutique called Isola on the way back to the car.  I popped in and found myself unable leave without a darling necklace.  Whenever I wear it, I’ll think of the soup, the scenery, and the sigh of relief I felt in lovely Lucca.

I couldn’t resist – here’s one more simply elegant church with a handful (instead of hundreds) of people.

Practical tips for Lucca:

• For free parking, navigate to the Piazzale Don Franco Baroni near Via delle Tagliate.  It’s about a five minute walk to the walls (and Cicli Bizzarri) from there.
• The city is mostly flat and many ramps lead up to the walls so this is one of the few good places in Tuscany to bring a pram.
• Free bathrooms can be found at the Tourist Information office sandwiched in between Cicli Bizzarri and another bicycle shop.

This post is part of Our Tuscan Family Adventure: Two Weeks of History, Culture, Food, and Fun in Italy series.  Click on the link to view our bucket list and recaps of each excursion!